Our sojourn at Utengule Coffee Lodge, on the slopes of the Mbeya Range in Southern Tanzania, is a pefect comma on this long trek to Cape Agulhas and beyond. For four days we take up residence in a 5-bedroom bungalow surrounded by lush gardens, with direct access to the lodge’s pool and restaurant. In between pulled-pork burgers, greek salads (with a fresh-baked bun and real butter!) and countless flat white coffees, we write the last post and hike up a trail to the lodge’s nearby coffee farm.

Peter, the resident agronomist, educates us on coffee varietals. Utengule grows uniquely arabica plants—high acidity and lots of flavour—but markets various assemblage, including robusta and liberica, in collaboration with other farms. After harvest, the beans are soaked and dried before being shipped to the roaster in Dar es Salaam. Most of the production is exported to Europe.

One morning, after an energising french press coffee, we load the bikes and continue south in the volcanic Rift Valley.

Originally from the Iringa region Saitoti, the young Maasai, is one of the security guards at the lodge and expertly takes my loaded bike for a spin! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

From Mbalizi, on the Tanzam Highway, we continue south on the “old road” to Kiwira. After passing at 2,100m and taking a wrong turn on a road that would have led us close to Zambia we get shown the path through Kipande and other villages. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

In Tanzania, bananas and plantains are the fourth most important crop for food and income generation for more than 30 percent of the total population. Rain, good drainage and a rich volcanic soil—Mount Rungwe’s (2,961m) volcanic silhouette in the background—make this part of Tanzania one of the most productive. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

From Tukuyu town at 1,500 meters of altitude we follow the rough and scenic route plunging down towards Lake Nyasa at just under 500 meters high. From Ipinda the new pavement allows for all our attention to be focused on the breathtaking Kipengere Range (also known as the Livingstone Mountains) rising precipitously in the east. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Matema’s roundabout lone baobab! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Straddling the border between Tanzania, Malawi and Mozambique is Africa’s third largest lake (31,000-square-kilometre). While in Tanzania we call this lake Nyasa, in Malawi we will use the term Lake Malawi. An unresolved boundary issue between the two nations has persisted for over a decade with Malawi agressively claiming the whole lake. We enjoy a rest day in Matema, part fishing village, part beach town. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Last moments in Tanzania, rounding the lake’s northern tip on a perfectly flat road going through banana, coconut and cocoa plantations. Grazing cows are munching on grass in the fields while patient egrets lie in wait for disturbed insects. On the road bicycles are at work!

A bamboo trunk! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Cut and carry forage grass! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Marketing 101! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.

Malawi

While Tanzania was a country we had come back to and were familiar with the basic history, politics and culture, Malawi is totally unknown. After crossing the bridge over the Songwe river, showing our yellow fever certificate and receiving our entry stamp into the small landlocked country, riding on the pancake-flat road to Karonga, there are some visible changes. In general traffic is a lot lighter, motorcycles have been replaced by bicycles. Carts pulled by oxen trundle past. Petrol is the equivalent of 1,50 usd per litre at the pump, amongst the highest fuel prices in the Sub-Saharan region, which might explain some of the changes we noticed…

Loosing Swahili as a lingua franca is destabilising for a couple of days. Malawi has 8 recognised regional languages, with Chewa being spoken by a majority, and claims English as its official language. Malawi’s Muslim minority is settled further south, so pigs join goats and cows as farm animals and dogs roam around unbothered. Billboards advertising alternately Christian denomination churches and humanitarian organisations form the bulk of roadside signage. Restaurants and food stores are thinly scattered and we start carrying more food stocks and cater to ourselves. The biggest adjustment—for two stomachs on wheels—is the disappearance of the fresh, hot chapati!

Traditionnal healers are in the mix with religion and western medicine. Special transplant from Mozambique here. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

We get acquainted quickly with the overlander phenomenon. Some lakeside campsites and lodges quote prices in dollars—the Malawi government devalued the kwacha by 44% in November 2023 yet the currency is still relatively unstable—and offer hot showers, fast wifi, volleyball on the beach, pool, steak dinners, gin & tonics and other soothing luxuries for the weary traveler. These enclaves cater to a crowd of mostly European Land Rover drivers, motorcyclists, cyclists, and sometimes tour buses. On our second day in Malawi, still having trouble comprehending paying 10,000 kwacha (5.75 usd) per person per night for camping, we displayed such sour faces that the owner threw a couple of free breakfasts in! Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

Because of its size (31,000 km2), islands and beaches it’s easy to forget that Lake Malawi is a fresh water lake! Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

Lake Malawi is home to more species of fish than any other lake in the world, including over 700 species of cichlids. Millions of people rely on the lake for their sustenance and livelihood. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

Less than a week before we entered Malawi I read online that the school year was ending and that children would re-enter classes only in september. “Pierre, it looks like we’ll be riding through packs of bored, unsupervised children for the whole of August!”, I said. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

From Chitimba, on the lake shore, the Gorode road to Livingstonia is only 15 kilometres long. It took us the whole day! Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

The twisting, distressed Gorode road is forcing its way steeply up the escarpment to 1,380 metres of altitude. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

After two failed attempts at establishing a mission at Cape Maclear and at Bandawe, the Free Church of Scotland moved its operations 900m above the lake—and its malarial mosquitoes—to a mountain top. Founded in 1894, Livingstonia—named after Dr. David Livingstone—surprises with its neat brick houses with large verandas, a glimpse of Malawi’s colonial past. The church warden doubles as tour guide. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

Since the 1990’s, the mission church has a stained-glass window featuring David Livingstone with his sextant, his medicine chest and his two native companions, with Lake Malawi in the background. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

Rural valley between Livingstonia and Nyika National Park. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

This is where we collide with Karaban, a solidarity caravan of 12,000 kms for a good cause. You can learn more and support them here. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

A long Sunday ends at the Meru petrol station, with white bread, canned tuna, tomatoes, red onions, coca-cola and a flat tire! Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

We spend two nights in Mzuzu, washing our clothes, buying a SIM card, looking for screws and patch kits, but mostly visiting the industrious city’s handful of supermarkets, the first ones we have come across since Dar es Salaam! From here on out food is easier to come by.

Featherlight natural rubber balls sold by Vizara rubber plantation. Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

No maple sugar here. Tapped rubber trees! Republic of Malawi, Northern Region.

M5 Road along the lake. Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Ain’t that right? Children have been calling out to get our attention mzungu, or its Swahili plural wazungu since Kenya, a term used for “white-skin-person”. In Malawi the Chichewa language makes us azungu. Over many days shrieks of excitement coming from mudbrick houses lining the road go from “Azungu! How are you?” to “Azungu bye! Azungu Bye!” and, sometimes, to “Azungu! Give me my money! Give me bottle! Give me sweets!” Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Bicycles at work. Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Formerly a roadside tree, soon to be a canoe on Lake Malawi! Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

African red sunset. Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Urban harmony with bike-taxis. Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

The Art of head-carrying girls! Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Lifuwu fishermen heading out for the night. Republic of Malawi, Central Region.

Joma Adventure Lodge, nestled amongst mammoth boulder piles inhabited by jolly baboons along the picturesque shore of Leopard Bay, has kindly invited us on a peaceful writing retreat in one of their comfortable lake front rooms. We could not be more grateful to them for allowing us the time to produce this substantial post. This is the manner in which we feel comfortable sharing the journey and it demands a pause, reflection and research, a download of sorts before heading back out on the road. Zikomo!

Slow descent into Zambezia! (Caia, Mozambique - KM 24,485)
Cycling in the Southern Highlands! (Utengule Coffee Lodge, Tanzania - KM 22,820)

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