The following segment of this journey could have ended in the city of Mbeya or on the shore of Lake Nyasa down in the Great Rift Valley but after receiving a kind invite from Utengule Coffee Lodge it was an easy decision to plan our next stopover at the world-class hotel and coffee farm. As we unload the dusty panniers from our bikes on the shady patio of our 5-bedroom bungalow I reflect on how action-packed this ride has been so far. There is never a dull moment and our senses are wide-awake!
Since leaving the Indian Ocean in Mtwara a fixation of ours is to ride to higher grounds and cooler climates. From an altitude of 1,100m in Songea we aimed to cycle across the Kipengere Range and, hopefuly, almost hit 3,000m—because the higher you get, the higher you get! With incomplete—or false—information about the road up ahead we hit the pedals hard.
Songea is the main town of the Ngoni tribe. They arrived in the region in the 1840s, at the end of a twenty-year, 3,500-kilometre migration from southern Africa. At the time, the Zulu Empire headed by King Chaka had descended into a civil war that provoked huge displacements of people. Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
A few kilometres north of the city sweet potatoes are harvested and sold. Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
At the end of a Friday afternoon we take refuge at the elementary school in the village of Ngadinda. The vegetable garden and mature trees in the courtyard are a delight. Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Saturday morning is surprisingly busy. Resident teachers manage a group of grade 7 boarders around cleaning and maintenance chores. The two foreigners waking up in one of their classrooms are a welcomed distraction. Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Apparently trucks loaded with coal also travel north from the coalfields near Songea! On this narrow roller-coaster they are—with the usual intercity buses—a serious happiness tempering device! Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Camping between a Catholic church and its caretaker’s house we share the space with dogs, puppies, hens and roosters—woofs and cock-a-doodle-doos all night! Ruvuma Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
At 1,800m the timber business is king. Mountains around are planted with fast-growing imported pine and eucalyptus trees. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Before Njombe we are gifted 16 green avocadoes to fuel our safari. Like carrying rocks in my Ortlieb duffle bag, rocks that will become delicious fruits in a few weeks! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Eating local is easy in this productive rural area. After buying ripe tamarillos we come across bush honey sold in upcycled Konyagi—Tanzania’s favourite fire water—bottles! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Reaching 2,000m just before the city of Njombe. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Downtime in the city. Bicycle maintenance, hot shower, research and food shopping on the agenda. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
On a ridge at the eastern end of the Kipengere Range the agricultural centre of Njombe surprises with its organised and clean streets and central market. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
From Njombe heading west we can expect pavement up until Makete District, after that probably not. Google map shows a road from Makete to Ujuni that our experienced eyes are suspicious of. In the event this road is a complete fabrication! Also, the same app shows Kitulo National Park as much larger than it actualy is, engulfing the through road within its borders, making us tiptoe towards an entry gate and a keeper charging an hefty entry and camping fee in US Dollar—a gate that does not exist either. Let’s plunge into the black hole!
On the brand new road out of Njombe we get overtaken by a cyclist. Alex is also enjoying silky pavement and fresh morning. We’ll see him again after lunch riding back towards the city. Cyclists heartfelt camaraderie! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
For 110 kilometres this race track hugs every fold of the Kipengere Range, jerking us around from 1900m in Njombe to 2300m in Makete. Enjoying the steep climbs with traction, something tells us we’ll need to pay for this soon! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Intricate patchwork of forestry plantations and burned fields as far as the eye can see. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
At the end of a long day, although concerned we might freeze to death, villagers allow our small camp to be erected between timber drying racks. There is a water well 25 metres away and a latrine we can use. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Different bivouac at an overpriced “executive” lodge. The damp and cold cement room is better tolerated in our Rab sleeping bags, but what a courtyard! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
After Makete’s unecessary giant roundabout our front wheels drop onto the rough road to Isapulano. The hard surface is embedded with sharp rocks and covered by a thick layer of dust the consistency of talcum powder. 1,800 kilometres into this trip we go from slick and serene to rugged and demanding in a heartbeat, time to get off the couch! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
When two strips of cement have been layed to avoid the road dissapearing during rainy season you know it’s a steep section! If riding a heavy bike up sharp inclines was an Olympic sports Pierre would be on his way to Paris this summer! Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
After Ujuni, at 2,700m, amongst the sage brush, potato fields and cow pastures a small herd of impala ewes are looking for food and water. Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Warning! You are now entering the montane grasslands of Kitulo National Park. Don’t litter…but slash and burn will be permitted 🙂 Njombe Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Further west the Kitulo Plateau abruptly ends at the eastern escarpment of the East African Rift. Humidity rising up from Lake Nyasa gives a green boost to the natural flora. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
From Kikondo to Isyonje mountain biking skills are useful. Trucks loaded with charcoal, avocadoes or potatoes, and heading to the city of Mbeya, lift up clouds of fine dust passing us on the uphill sections, then we overtake them on the downhill as they slow down and try not break an axle or topple over. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
The battered path crosses a handful of villages. Our caravan rides through a tunnel of the usual “Hey! Muzungu! How are you?” in Igoma. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
If the tuque fits. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Busy monday morning crossing Mbeya’s urban sprawl on the TANZAM Highway—the main road link between East Africa and Southern Africa. Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Jubilant arrival at Utengule Coffee Lodge. Let’s start with an iced latte! Mbeya Region, United Republic of Tanzania.
Looking at a map of where we have been in Tanzania we noticed that we have nearly gone all around it. I mean AROUND it. The route looks like an inverted C, as if we had set out to ride its edges. From the Rusumu border crossing with Rwanda, where we entered in 2016, to almost Kenya at Lake Natron and east to the Indian Ocean and Zanzibar where we ended N2 Part 1. And now from Dar es Salaam to the southern limit of the country and west to the Great Rift Valley.
In a few days we will cross a border into another country. I have a feeling Pierre and I will return one day to Tanzania, to its breathtaking landscapes and peace-loving people. So, for now, kwaheri Tanzania!