We could have written a post everyday for the past three weeks while coming to Karthoum, Sudan’s capital, from Aswan in Upper Egypt through the deserts and villages of North Sudan. Our own survival in a sun baked land could have provided ample stories of prickly heat, triclosan powder, nausea, constipation and butt crack irritation. The rich and long history of ancient civilizations, invaders, wars and extreme politics could have been unpacked through daily musings. Not to mention the rich tapestry of tribal cultures intertwined and evolving in Africa but, figuratively and literally, so close to the Middle East. Most importantly we could have told you about the people, their openness and positivism, the daily gestures that made us feel comfortable and welcomed even during the hottest time of the year, on which falls the Ramadan this year. One of the five pillars of Islam, the holy month is a time for prayer and humility while Muslims refrain from eating, drinking (no water), smoking and sexy times from sun up to sun down!
Now that we have reached the laid-back capital city and are sitting in clean clothes in our air-conditioned room at the mirage that is the legendary German Guesthouse (now re-branded as the International Karthoum Guesthouse), provided with three square meals a day and an excellent WiFi connection, we are overwhelmed by the material and pressed for time as our new Ethiopian visas are already ticking—even though Ethiopia is still more than 500 kilometres away. So, we have decided to share this section of the journey with few words but lots of images. Aware that some overlanders will be rummaging through this post looking for slivers of road information about this poorly documented part of the world we include here some practical information about water, food and shade in the Nubian and Bayuda deserts.
Why come to Sudan now, we have been asked. Well, Pierre and I are not meticulous about timing, we’re of the broad strokes kind. Anyway, on a long ride you know where and when it starts, but for the rest of it you get there when you get there. So, it is unintentionally that we threw this double wrench in our wheels. Here is what happened…