“As soon as you’ll cross from Sudan into Ethiopia you’ll start to climb”, everybody kept repeating. On our Hungarian topographical map the light beige of Egypt and Sudan gave way to a bright orange for most of Ethiopia, a sure sign that we were about to go up. I don’t know of two people to have ever anticipated with more eagerness the coming of mountains, hills, valleys and a cooler climate. There were still hundreds of kilometres to ride, during the last days of Ramadan, from Karthoum to this promised land, here is how it went…
We left a little of ourselves at the German Guesthouse in Karthoum gluing our N² (nomadsXnomads) sticker on its front door. It was difficult to leave our comfortable room and the exciting atmosphere of development workers and expatriates intrigues. Thank you for everything! Karthoum State, Republic of the Sudan.What joy to find fresh peanut butter for sale. We can move on from our tahini-banana sandwiches we have been enjoying since Turkey! Karthoum, Karthoum State, Republic of the Sudan.It’s mango season! Fruit sellers on the road between Karthoum and Wad Medani, a narrow road made busier by the end of Ramadan. Karthoum State, Republic of the Sudan.A little after 7pm carpets and water jugs are prepared for Iftar, the breaking of the daily fast. We get invited dozens of times but continue to find a camping spot before it gets too dark. Al Jazirah State, Republic of the Sudan.We stop by a work camp to fill our dromedary bags with water and are invited to stay the night. The crew is building a waste water treatment plant on the Blue Nile. Our hosts are from Iran and everything we have heard about Iranian hospitality comes true when the men sweep our air-con trailer, bring us a cooler of ice-water, some candies, fruits and mosquito repellent before inviting us to dinner at the canteen. Then, we are shown to the shower block and our salty clothes are put in the washing machine! Over breakfast we share our dream of touring in Iran, and are told that now we will have friends to visit! Al Jazirah State, Republic of the Sudan.South of Karthoum temperatures are lower than in the north, still we keep up with our shady afternoon breaks. Time to eat, drink copious amounts of our homemade sports drink (instant hibiscus or baobab powder, lime juice, salt and water), filter water, read, sleep and learn Arabic. Al Jazirah State, Republic of the Sudan.After the bridge over the Blue Nile our only option for the night falls on a funky, extra dirty, highway hotel. Al Jazirah State, Republic of the Sudan.Passed Wad Medani the road becomes quieter and enjoyable, largely due to the fact that buses are gathered together in convoys escorted by police trucks “so they don’t speed and have accidents”. Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Villages of rounded huts inhabited by people who migrated from Nigeria during the 19th century, or later, the Fellatas or Fulas. Muslims, they settled on the pilgrims’ trail to Mecca. Khayr as Sid, Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.After fixing 4 flat tires in 17 kilometres (his tires are threadbare) Pierre runs out of patches and we have no choice but to hitchhike to Gedaref. A nerve-wracking ride with heavy cable rollers, nails popping, straps snapping. “This is very dangerous”, our driver says. Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Is it time to retire this one? The only replacements available have Chinese valves. Gedaref, Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.He will recycle your spent tubes and tires. Gedaref, Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Traditional huts integrated into suburbia. Gedaref, Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Ramadan is over! After 30 days of daytime fasting people dress up and celebrate Eid al-Fitr. We are offered a plate of cookies, dates and candies by the girls. Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.For the boys it’s pressed shirts and firecracker guns! Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.In this village the crescent moon could not be observed—required to end Ramadan—so the fasting continues. Children are bringing trays of uncooked cookies to the communal oven, preparing for tomorrow…insh’allah! Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.En route to celebrate Eid al-Fitr with the family. Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Deforestation is evident in southern Sudan. Could coal-making have anything to do with it? Al Qadarif State, Republic of the Sudan.Dry country no more! After crossing into Ethiopia we encounter our first beer in 36 days! Metema, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.You! You! Youyouyouyouyouyou! Where are you go? Faranji! Ethiopian children are little balls of joy. Even working hard herding animals of fetching water they take time to great passers-by. Heartwarming until “money” gets inserted into the melody, or stones hit the back of our bikes! Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.Zebu bulls taking a break from their long trek up to Azezo, walking themselves to the beef market more than 100 kilometres away! Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.Yes, we have started climbing, and at 1,400 metres of altitude the end-of-day thunderstorm is coming. This is the first time we have used the fly sheet and gear shed since April and, I think, Ray Charles and Stevie Wonder would have been more efficient setting up camp! Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.Cycling up to the Ethiopian highlands during rainy season it is obvious that sub-Sahara Africa will be very different from the north! Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.
We have reached the city of Gondar, sitting in a bowl among green hills, catching our breath at 2,300 metres of altitude, enjoying strong macchiatos, avocado shakes and Dashen beer. Fasil Lodge has invited N² to stay while we wrote this post—thank you—and visited the sights the city has to offer, impressive palaces and churches from centuries past, adjusted to our new surroundings, and prepared our next moves in this unique country.
Salut Pierre et Janick!
Que de belles photos ! Vous nous faites voyager avec ce site ! Merci! Bon courage dans votre montée! J’ai hâte au prochain blog!
Tourlou!
Hi dear Janick and Pierre? How is it going? Thank you for your praise of our hospitality. But it was a little work for our new friends. I hope you have a good travel and good days on the way.
Hope to see you in our beautiful IRAN.
Your new friend, Mehdi
Was the culture change (besides the beer, of course) instantly obvious at Metema? No religious crossover in the border region?
“Chinese valves”? Didn’t know there was such a thing. Guess you could buy a Chinese pump! What are all those patches doing on the INSIDE of Pierre’s tubes?
Congratulations on avoiding another gauntlet of “protective” convoys 😉
Salut Pierre et Janick!
Que de belles photos ! Vous nous faites voyager avec ce site ! Merci! Bon courage dans votre montée! J’ai hâte au prochain blog!
Tourlou!
Hi dear Janick and Pierre? How is it going? Thank you for your praise of our hospitality. But it was a little work for our new friends. I hope you have a good travel and good days on the way.
Hope to see you in our beautiful IRAN.
Your new friend, Mehdi
So maybe after all you’ll get back into Iran!
Was the culture change (besides the beer, of course) instantly obvious at Metema? No religious crossover in the border region?
“Chinese valves”? Didn’t know there was such a thing. Guess you could buy a Chinese pump! What are all those patches doing on the INSIDE of Pierre’s tubes?
Congratulations on avoiding another gauntlet of “protective” convoys 😉
Also, the interactive map is much appreciated!