Since Tanzania we have told people who asked that we were on our way to South Africa. Further down the road, we made it more specific, and said we were cycling to Cape Town. Since reaching the multicultural city we declare “Namibia!” as the next target. Of course this is shorthand for: “We’ll visit Cape Town before riding up on the Atlantic Coast to Melkbosstrand Beach and cutting inland to Swartland for a meeting with a pirate winemaker. Then, by Wellington, we’ll go over Bain’s Kloof, Michell’s and Gydo Passes to enter the Cederberg Mountains on the southside, and cross the range to Clanwilliam and the Olifants River valley. From there, we’ll ride over lowland expanses of barren rocky plains in Namaqualand until the mountains come back near Kamieskroon, in the Northern Cape Province. When we’ll leave Springbok, it’ll be a 120-km ride to the Orange River and Namibia, our next destination!”
Our entry permits for South Africa are good for 90 days. This means we must exit before April. Coincidentally, starting April 1st, 2025, Namibia will enforce a new visa policy for nationals of 33 countries, including Canada. The new visa-on-arrival will go from being free to costing 1600 Namibian dollars (90 usd) so let’s make it to the border for March 31st!
Greater Cape Town
The first inhabitants of the Cape Town area were the San and Khoikhoi people. The San were hunter-gatherers who survived in the region by hunting wild animals and gathering edible plants and roots, while the Khoikhoi were semi-nomadic herders. The natural bounty of the Cape—abundant fresh water and fertile grazing lands—was seen as providential for the European colonial powers roaming the world’s oceans in the 1600s hence its nickname “The tavers od the seas”. The Dutch founded a supply station for the Dutch East India Company (VOC) at Table Bay in 1652, thus creating South Africa’s oldest city.
In the Northern Suburbs of Cape Town we ride to the office of Leatt Protectives. The well-known Capetonian brand specialises in advanced protective equipment for motocross and mountain biking. Pietr-André, the chief bio-medical engineer, gives us a tour of the cutting-edge lab his team built to design and test their products—picture dummies being dropped on their heads and 3D printers working around the clock. The scientist also hands over a box filled with spare parts and miscelleanous bits and pieces we have shipped from Calabash Safari Lodge in October, and a second one sent by Squirt Cycling Products in George, full of lube and sealant. Probably moved by the sight of our well-used gloves, Pietr-André goes to the warehouse and updates our riding gloves and Trail 3.0 helmets. Looking spiffy in Durbanville! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
One of South Africa’s most iconic landmark, Table Mountain, is often dressed with its “table cloth”, a layer of clouds cascading over the flat top of the mountain. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Long Street and its historic Victorian balconies. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
On the slope of Signal Hill the Bo-Kaap neighborhood started in 1760 as an area to house slaves. The Dutch East India Company (VOC) traded in humans from the Dutch colonies in present-day Malaysia and Indonesia, but also from Africa, India, Madagascar and Sri Lanka. Cape Malay, as it was known, became a muslim enclave and persisted through Apartheid as a Muslim-only area, an unusual non-racial line that allowed the residents to remain instead of being displaced to townships. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Cape Town is also a beach city. Camps Bay Beach, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The “Cape Doctor” is a strong southeasterly wind that sweeps across the Cape Flats. Its consistency is the main reason for windsurfers and kitesurfers to come to Cape Town from all over the world. Between August and April Bloubergstrand catches the wind perfectly, making it the epicenter for kitesurfing. During our extended stay at Tabu House on Dolphin Drive we rub shoulders with exhausted and giddy surfers. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
With a view across the bay on Table Mountain, Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head and, out at sea, Robben Island we leave the “Mother City”. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
In the northeasternmost limits of Greater Cape Town a small car is parked on the side of the road, its driver and passenger waiting for us. Angela and Ken invite us to follow them to their house on their daughter’s farm. We obey. The couple is British but lived in SA for 40 years, and raised their kids here. While on the continent they criss-crossed Africa in a Land Rover, on motorbikes and on regular push bikes. They returned to England 15 years ago and now their daughter has built them a farmhouse in hope they will visit often. It is their first stay and they are trying it on for size. Over a dinner of rice and bobotie, they share stories of pushing their loaded bikes in the dense jungle of Zaire in 1989, and their current admiration for Justin Trudeau and dislike of a certain U.S. President! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Adi Badenhorst
At the top of the list of vineyards we wanted to visit in South Africa was A.A. Badenhorst Famiy Wines. For its natural wines produced at the Kalmoesfontein farm, on the slope of the Paardeberg in Swartland—the top-tier of which is almost impossible to obtain in Canada—but also to meet its legend winemaker Adi Badenhorst. Through some wine industry insiders—the sommelier living in our house while we are in Africa—we had procured Adi’s WhatsApp number with his consent. “If everything goes well we could arrive Friday late or Saturday early”, I proposed. “Hey guys! Let’s make this happen! Are you talking about this coming Friday?”, he answered within a couple of hours. “I’m booking you a table. We have a pizza night and live music on Friday.”
The pizza part of the night is masterfully orchestrated by Adi’s brother Charl. His 48 hour slow fermented “00” flour dough and skills at the wood burning oven produce the best pie in Africa! The monthly “Kalmoesfontein First Friday Music and Pizza night’s” concept is to “keep the pizzas rolling, the wine flowing and the music rocking until everyone is fully satisfied.” Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
As for the music, Arno Carstens and Albert Frost play an intimate moving set for a captivated audience. We learn later that the former is the lead singer of Springbok Nude Girls, a South African rock band that once opened for U2, and the latter is a guitar virtuoso, leader of the Blues Boers since the age of 17! Certainly a night to remember. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Saturday morning, I leap out of the tent wearing my t-shirt inside out and backwards! Adi Badenhorst’s billowing voice rips the air “Well, you can’t complain the wine wasn’t good wearing your shirt like that!” While my arms disappear inside my shirt trying to spin the embarrassing situation around he adds “Come inside the cellar, I’ll make you a coffee!” Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Wines are grown, made and matured at the farm. The old bush vines of Chenin Blanc, Cinseault and Grenache are unirrigated and farmed as biologically as possible, verging on biodynamic. Rustic winemaking is a choice, no crushing or destemming, no new oak, just perfect fruit and utmost respect! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Since 2008 Adi is master of his domain—after stints making wine for others in France, New Zealand and Stellenbosch—in the hot and dry Swartland. In the cellar, over a life-giving espresso, the conversation is lively and devolves into a dark improv game usually reserved to old friends. We leave with a bottle of A.A. Badenhorst Kalmoesfontein white blend and one of Adi’s new passion, the Saldanha Spanish-style sherry. We trade it for an almost-empty bottle of maple syrup from the Bouchard family’s sugar shack in Charlevoix, Quebec. It will join the other ornaments in the grotto. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Bain’s Kloof, Michell’s and Gydo Passes
The British Cape Colony administrators proposed that the establishement of an efficient road infrastructure to connect the Cape to the interior would open up trade and spur economic development. In 1845 Andrew Geddes Bain was appointed Inspector of Roads in the Western Cape, and put in charge of the construction of Michell’s Pass to Ceres, a key route to the interior. To lower the budget, convict labour would be used.
While the work was in progress Bain also worked on Gydo Pass, connecting the warm Bokkeveld with the higher altitude Koue (Cold) Bokkeveld. Then, he embarked on his masterwork, a pass slicing across the first range of mountains separating Cape Town from the interior of South Africa, the pass that bears his name and now known as Bain’s Kloof.
Make sure your roof fits under the tassels or you will regret it! Wellington, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Trying to overtake on the western approach. Bain’s Kloof, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The overhanging rock called Dacres Pulpit on the eastern side of the pass, which was blasted out of solid rock—later Bain developped, at Meiringspoort in the Karoo, the technique of burning rocks and splashing them with cold water to split them, a process his brillant son Thomas Bain will continue using during his illustrious carreer as padmaker (road builder) extraordinaire. Bain’s Kloof, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
After scrambling on his horse down the kloof on the eastern side, Bain described what he saw to his boss: “In this frightful terra incognita everything is repulsive and savagely grand, and may well account for the ignorance that prevails on both sides of the mountains respecting that locality…However, with all those apparent disadvantages, I could distinctly trace a line for a road along the left bank of the stream.” Thus work started in February 1849, and the pass was formally opened in September 1853. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The town of Ceres lies in a valley surrounded by mountains and accessed only via mountain passes. We arrived from the Breede River Valley by Michell’s Pass, and are leaving going up Gydo Pass on R303, the two projects Andrew Geddes Bain worked on before starting on Bain’s Kloof. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Rising from the Warm Bokkeveld to the Koue Bokkeveld at Gydo Pass, from grapes, apricots and peaches to apple, onions and potatoes! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Fresh night at 1,000 meters of altitude near Op die Berg, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The Cederberg
We had never heard of the Cederberg before coming to South Africa yet, locally, the mention of the mountainous wilderness area stirs up excitement. People struggle to describe the dramatic beauty of the wind-carved sandstone range. “Cederberg? Ooh, goosebumps!” was all Adi had managed…
Is this a nervous smile? Looking at the upcoming Grootrivierhoogte Pass! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Pierre educates himself on the continent’s biggest stray cats! Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The first inhabitants of Southern Africa, the San People, have left thousands of rock art paintings, including in the Koue Bokkeveld and Cederberg Mountains, where they roamed for over 500 000 years, before their society was disrupted by European colonists. Western Cape Province, Rebublic of South Africa.
Winery in a high altitude nature reserve? Is it too early for a wine flight? Western Cape Province, Rebublic of South Africa.
Dropping down into the Uitkyk River groove from the spectacular pass of the same name. Western Cape Province, Rebublic of South Africa.
The micro climate at Jamaka Organic Farm allows for mangoes to grow! We add to our growing collection of locally grown dried fruit! Western Cape Province, Rebublic of South Africa.
Joining the Olifants River valley before Clanwilliam in smoky air created by seasonal forest fires. Western Cape Province, Rebublic of South Africa.
Olifants River and N7
From Clanwilliam to Springbok the road options are fewer and we decide to stay along the Olifants River until Lutzville, then cut across to the N7 at Nuwerus. Late summer brings in 38 degree Celsius temperatures, tropical rains and poweful headwinds.
The Olifants River valley produces—thanks to an extensive irrigation network—high quality citrus, rooibos tea and excellent wines. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
A biltong shop at a truck stop would not usualy draw our attention, except that an inordinate number of cars veer off N7 in Trawal to park in front of it. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Inside it’s biltong wall to wall! The selection is varied but we go conservatively for normal beef biltong, and add half a kilo of dried meat to the dried fruits stockpile. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
When your WarmShower host is a campground (Draaihoek Plaas Kamp) that lets bike travellers stay for free! Look at us having build enough confidence to braai for ourselves! Spot Mimi the cat trying a Therm-a Rest Trekker chair! Vredendal, Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
President Trump’s asylum offer to South Africa’s white minority follows years of AfriForum lobbying. It was surprising to witness the strong presence of the non-governmental organisation in the countryside. It was explained to us that they work as a union, protecting farmers against violence and squatters, with the right powers and insurance. Like many things in this country: it’s complicated. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The Cape-Namibia Route is a stretch of road that connects Cape Town to Namibia’s capital, Windhoek, in a distance of 1 478 km. Western Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Long haul trucking on N7, wrestling against a muscular wind out of the settlement of Garies. Northern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Neat and tidy camp at Kamieskroon Kroon Lodge. Northern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
From Kamieskroon one can see the “Bushman” lying down, his grey hair, nose, mouth, chest and feet. Can you see him? Northern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
About 10 kilometers before Springbok I see an old green Land Rover pull over on the highway’s shoulder and two people stepping out. By the time I reach them they are standing behind their vehicle. She is round and her smile reveals some metal teeth, he is skinny wearing short shorts and a goatie, his skin is sunbaked. “Hi!”, they start. I know what’s coming and I’m already uncomfortable. “Where are you sleeping tonight?” they continue, after some customary questions regarding my journey. For once I have an answer: “My husband is ahead and we are heading to The Olive Tree Guesthouse.” Their deception is apparent and I love them for it. Man! I’m going to miss this country!
