As we leave Mantsebo Guesthouse in Mokhotlong we get a view of the 90m high bridge being built on the Senqu River, the largest of three bridges that will span the Polihali reservoir of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project (LHWP). The Kingdom of Lesotho’s most important natural resource is clean water and the LHWP will double the transfer of water from Lesotho to the thirsty Republic of South Africa. We will join the Senqu River—internationaly known as the Orange River—many times further south and west into South Africa, in a chaotic quickstep. Through Lesotho we have decided on a route that highlights the craggy topography of the Maloti Mountain Range, and includes Matebeng Pass (2960m). Many who used to qualify Matebeng as “difficult” and “very challenging”, now say it’s “impassable” since being left to rot after the construction of an alternate road to Tsoelike on A4. Knowing that when a mountain bike reaches its limits it can become luggage we press on!
On road A3 things start with a nice climb from 2,100m at the Sehonghong River to the 3,030 metres high Menoaneng Pass. The A3 is one of the main highways of Lesotho, linking Thaba-Tseka with Maseru, the capital city. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The Basotho shepherds tend cattle, sheep or goats, moving from pasture to pasture with their livestock. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
From the summit of Menoaneng Pass (3,030m), looking south towards Linakaneng River Valley. The descent has very steep sections and deep gaps in the road. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
In the treeless expanses of Lesotho’s highlands, rock is the obvious choice for building shelters and houses. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Village communities assume control over communal lands in Lesotho—no fences, no private property—so when 5 ladies, coming back from working the fields, hoes and shovels in hand, give permission for us to camp by the river, we know it’s going to be a peaceful night. They also offer a swig of joala, a fermented sorghum and maize drink, milky yellow in color and sour in taste, before pursuing the walk home. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
November is the begining of summer, when Lesotho gets most of its rain, and after all the snow has melted it’s time to plant the garden. Mokhotlong District, Kingdom of Lesotho
Practicing some English on us: “Give me my sweet, please!” A simple “We don’t have sweets” often suffice to turn the conversation elsewhere. Still, who are those visitors handing out candies and money to children? I often wonder. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Herd boys as young as 9 or 10 years old patrol the mountainside with some animals. It is estimated that around a third of Lesotho’s school-aged boys are shepherds. They start with cows, because sheep are dumb and goats are too smart! Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The male initiation rite Lebello la banna takes young men from boyhood to manhood. Over a period of weeks or months, the initiates are tutored on the knowledge of culture, family life and sexuality. Part of the rite of passage includes a circumcision. After some time spent away from society, the young men are incorporated in village life with new status, names and clothes. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
We are enjoying the freedom of being able to stop anywhere to sleep, a bend in the road by a small creek is perfection. Expecting foul weather during the wet season, we are surprised by the lack of precipitation or clouds. The night sky has a billion stars, Venus and Jupiter are so big and bright, and Elon Musk’s satellites look like airplanes. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
At the junction of the Senqu and Matebeng rivers the road has descended to 1,725m of altitude and the surroundings have dried up. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
By the Matebeng river, two shepherds are rolling another blunt, while we mime our intentions of “riding” up river. With no commun language, the older man rubs his right index finger from the tip of his left thumb to the tip of his left index finger and slides it back in the web of the hand, perfectly demonstrating a mountain pass! Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Last village before Matebeng Pass. We buy cookies and carry on. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Villages are connected by pony trails and the road to Matebeng Pass fits the bill. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The only consumption goods we see being transported in Lesotho is beer, still when we come accross a group of donkeys, hauling cases of South African beer, coming down from the pass ,we can’t believe our luck! Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The purchase of 3 litres of beer is quickly completed and the caravan continues its course downstream. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
At 2,400m we enjoy a beer and a good rest before the last push to the pass. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
We made many efforts on this trip to lighten our loads, but Pierre’s bike is still an elephant! Pushing the bikes one at a time gives us the opportunity to marvel at the majestic landscape, spot new flowers, lezards and the critically endangered bearded vultures. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The cell phone tower at the pass beckoning us. Thaba-Tseka District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
A young shepherd, and his 9 cows, follow our slow progress to 2,960m. The pleasure of rolling down the east side of the pass, where clouds from the Indian Ocean are hanging, is lessen by the road’s rocky conditions. It’s hike-a-bike downhill at times. Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Light traffic at the bottom of the pass. Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
And just like that, we go from a ruined road surface to the smoothest pavement! We learn in the village of Mavuka that construction on this section of N4, to Qacha’s nek, has just been completed this October! Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Flying at 2,400m on the Maloti Mountains’ crest, Dragon’s back. Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
The eastern Lesotho border is drawn along the watershed or continental divide of Southern Africa. The newly paved A4 road skirts the escarpment and offers a bird’s-eye view of the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa’s Eastern Cape province. Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
At the general dealer in Ramatsediso we buy apples, sad tomatoes and a bag of banana flavoured cornmeal porridge. “Is there a school where we could camp at for the night?” we ask the shopkeeper. Rapidly, a neighbour takes charge and calls around. Pierre is dragged to a very drunk school board chairman, who agrees to allow our caravan to rest in a classroom. Qacha’s Nek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
After a week without a shower or significant restock we decide to leave A4 and head to Qacha’s Nek. The small border town has a couple of basic supermarkets, a handful of overpriced guesthouses and a good supply of south african beer, it’s all we need to refuel and recharge.
The summer school holidays have started and little entrepreneurs sell unripe miniature plums and peaches. Yes, please! Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
Famo is an accordion-based popular Basotho music genre. Surprisingly, for such a peaceful country, famo musicians have been embroiled in murderous vendettas between rival gangs. For ten years jealousy has driven this bloody warfare between collectives. A Lesotho version of the mid-1990s East Coast-West Coast hip-hop rivalry. Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
A valuable effort to counter the prevalence of HIV/AIDS in Lesotho, one of the world’s highest. It is estimated that almost 25% of the adult population is HIV positive. Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho. Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
After the intersection with A5, the road to Semonkong, we climb up to Lebelonyane Pass (2,463m) for breathtaking views on mountains in every direction. The way down is steep and narrow, with dozens of bends and corners, a break-pumping hair-raising descent to the Quthing River.
The Mundia Bridge delivers us at the T where the Quthing empties into the Senqu/Orange River, at 1,450m. The low altitude brings in warmer temperatures, plus my Yr weather app (Norwegians do it best!) warns of a heatwave coming to Southern Africa. Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
It’s a smooth border crossing from Lesotho to South Africa at Tele Bridge. The only bit of drama happens when the Lesotho agent gives me the evil eye after I offer a wrapped chocolate to Pierre, from the tray of holiday goodies layed in front of her. “I said it’s one rand each!”, she says curtly. “Oh! I thought you said it’s one each!”, I reply, while digging in my pocket for a couple of coins. Tis the season to be jolly/fa la la la la, la la la la. Mohale’s Hoek District, Kingdom of Lesotho.
South Africa
Upon re-entering South Africa in the Eastern Cape Province we are now in the Great Karoo, a vast semi-arid desert. Celebrated as a veritable treasure trove of fossils, some predating the dinosaurs by several millenia, the Karoo has funky-shaped mountains and endless skies. The Karoo had a long history before the trekboers arrived—starting in the 17th century—from the Dutch-colonised Cape and started to raise subsistence livestock on the parched land.
Border crossings always come with a bit of adjustment, but it’s difficult to express how Lesotho, which is completely surrounded by South Africa, is such a cultural monolith. The “mountain kingdom” is staunchly African, independent, laidback and conservative, while South Africa prides itself on being “the rainbow nation”, diverse and progressive. And we are here for all of it! Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
At a roadside café, we rest our mounts in the shade and giggle when a cute customer parks his tiny bicycle besides ours. While we work on some rice, veggies, mutton stew and ginger beer, he stares and whispers. Before we leave he has the courage to ask for a group photo. A future bikepacker? Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Find the mistake! Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
On the hottest day of the heatwave, we arrive in the small town of Lady Grey. We follow directions to Comfrey Cottage, where Grant Freeme operates his Cycle Touring shop, the only one in Southern Africa stocking Ortlieb panniers, Old Man Mountain racks and everything needed for cycletouring and bikepacking. We stock up on the small orange silicone rings designed to close our frame bags—we have given one to meghyem0ut in Eswatini and broken a second one—and camp in the garden for a couple of nights. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
In Aliwal North, on the border of Eastern Cape and Free State, we glimpse at the Orange River one last time—the name Gariep River is localy favoured since the end of apartheid. From where it rises, in the Maloti Mountains of Lesotho, there is a strong possibility that we will see the river again at its mouth on the Atlantic Ocean, at the border between South Africa and Namibia. Fingers crossed…
Strange Karoo with an odd wildebeest hiding amongst cows, and ostriches grazing along sheep. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
After Burgersdorp, the R391 route turns into a sweet gravel road passing at 1,649m asl. A long section has no farms, acacia bushes line the road and baboons travel in groups. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
We ride to an off-the-beaten-path safari lodge in search of water. The fact that there is no gate and no security agents tells us we are in a distinct part of South Africa. For many kilometers after, the track follows the lodge’s territory. Impalas, oryx, kudus, buffaloes and elands graze on dehydrated grass among the rounded termite hills. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Slowly we reintegrate farmland and its kilometers of barbed wire fences. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Where to sleep? Finaly, a gate is slightly set back from the road leaving enough space for our tent! Just after dinner, as I am putting our sheets on our sleeping pads, a pick up truck arrives in a rush, headlights facing our camp. “I saw your headlamps on my security cameras and I thought I was getting some sheep stolen”, says the gentle giant. “Especially at this time of the year”, he adds, refering to the national summer holidays that have just started. “If you need water, just head to my wind pump down there. Sorry about that! Keep an eye for puff adders, they like water…”, he finishes before driving back to his farm house. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
At 1,250m, like a mirage, the town of Hofmeyr appears on the horizon. The Hofmeyr Skull, belonging to a 36,000 year old modern human was found here in 1952, aiding the « Out-of-Africa » theory, the recent African origin of homo sapiens.Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The pink church of Hofmeyr. Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
At our dusty campsite-by-the-fence, David had stopped his car to invite us : « Come to the Farmhouse, not far from the church, there will be a meal for you ». Before being treated to a delicious egg benedict on roosterkoek (a yeast dough roll baked over the coals of a braai) we are shown a bathroom where a hot shower awaits. What a nice surprise! Davis is a fireball. He makes flat whites and cappucinos on his fancy Jura machine for the costumers lining up, while going back and forth to the electrical box to reboot the power. During his breaks he revels in telling stories about his historical café, fossils, south african steamed bread and the Great Karoo. He is especially excited about the Freedom Challenge, a 2,150km MTB race—that’s right—across South Africa. The racers come through Hofmeyr every year and the stunning poster of the event hangs proudly above an Hofmeyr skull replica inside the Farmhouse. Maybe David has a soft spot for cyclists! Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
Potholes are the least of our worries as we head south on a 38-degree afternoon with 50km/h wind gusts! Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
The owners of Die Tuishuise & Victoria Manor in Cradock restored 30 cottages, originally built in the 1840s, on Market Street, thus preserving a slice of South Africa’s history. They invited Pierre and I to move in the Harry Potter cottage long enough to write this post and prepare our holiday season. It’s gonna be big! 😉 😉 Eastern Cape Province, Republic of South Africa.
