Riding my awkwardly loaded mountain bike on the broken up yellow line, my mind is trying to decipher the messages sent by road users coming behind me. It’s a honking symphony. There are the motorcycles “boda boda”, motorised rickshaws “bajaj” and minibuses “dala dala” hooking in rhythmic sequences to attract […]

As soon as we landed in Montreal, in April of 2016, friends and family asked when we would go back to Africa for the second leg of nomads by nomads (N2) project. The answer was the same we had often, if not always, used after a long tour: “We’ll take […]

With our plane tickets for Montreal bought, we cycled out of Lushoto and towards the Indian Ocean, staying high in the Usambara Mountains as long as we could. With the mountains behind us, the next goal was to reach the Indian Ocean, having dreamt of its Swahili culture and cuisine […]

Weeks ago we decided to end the first leg of “nomads by nomads” in Dar Es Salaam. If we wanted to visit northern Tanzania’s nomadic peoples and fly back to Quebec before the end of “sugar shack” season—which we do—our plan A of riding to Johannesburg had to be discarded. […]

“No, no, no! Look at us! We are from many tribes but we are ALL Tanzanians, united!”, he cried out. The owner of the bar in Dareda where we had stopped at to rest, drink and filter enough water to continue cycling through the afternoon had asked if we wanted […]