Of course our 90-day East Africa visas were about to expire and we had not entered Rwanda yet, the third of three countries (Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda) included in the immigration safe-conduct. We thought for a minute about riding our bicycles from Uganda to Tanzania, skipping Rwanda altogether. Our minds thought […]

“Do not ride bicycles in the Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP)! Please, take a taxi”, she implored. “Once, I saw a lion, he jumped on a cyclist and argh!”, she added for dramatic effect. Agnes had rented us a spotless and spartan room for 15,000 shillings in her small guesthouse […]

« She too will be able to cycle to Rwanda? », asked the skeptical Ugandan border official to Pierre as if they were two adults discussing a six-year old child. “I’m just a girl in the world”, Gwen Stefani would say, and lately I am also just a mzungu from Wazunguland, kept […]

Getting off our bicycles and out of our stinky sandals at Borana Lodge was a bit like dying and going to heaven. The plush room, feather pillows and spa-size bathroom, along with daily gourmet meals and wine made for a change of gear and a surreal holiday. For a couple […]

Our guidebook of Kenya considered the road south from Lodwar towards Kitale “diabolical”, an hardly recognizable stretch of pavement laid in the 1980s and abandoned thereafter. After ten kilometres, when Pierre had what felt like a millionth flat tire, and a white truck approached our location on a parallel sandy […]