“We’re not Ukrainian, we are Romanian!” The three men had stopped us on the road, some 20 kilometres from the border, and invited us for a coffee inside their building material dealership/convenience store. Within seconds of finishing the small strong black java a bottle of samagon appears. Walnuts from a…

We are in Yasinya, on road H09, a few kilometres South of the mountain pass separating the Ivano-Frankivs’ka and Zakarpats’ka Provinces. We know where we want to go from here, but we are looking for people to stop us. The German map we bought in Warsaw shows a little grey…

Two thousand kilometres in ten days, but just 220 of them ridden on a bike. We have envisioned many possibilities regarding the frustrating 90-day permit to the Schengen Area—basically 26 European countries that have abolished border controls and function has one country, from Iceland to Greece, Portugal to Norway, and…

We wanted to stay longer in Karasjok so when John Arne Mathiesen, the manager at the Rica Hotel, invited us to move into room #115 for a couple of nights it was perfect timing. This solid base made it easier to visit the Sami Parliament and Sàpmi Park, a Sami…