We are flying on a tail wind through rows of vines and rose bushes. Bulgaria produces most of the world’s rose oil and has been in the wine business since the 5th century BC! Jean-Martin has been riding with us for a week and we celebrate the milestone by picking…

Instead of a gradual change from the Carpathian Mountains to the plains leading to the Danube River, we have gone from the quiet open country of the Transalpina to being squeezed between the busy road #66 and a grey sky. Ruins of communist-era buildings dot empty fields and road kills…

The Bicaz Canyon serves as a passageway between the historical regions of Moldavia and Transylvania. The high limestone walls are glittering after a drizzle and traffic is light on “one of the best drives in Romania” in the off-season. Switchbacks lead up to Lacu Roşu, a red lake apparently tinted…

“We’re not Ukrainian, we are Romanian!” The three men had stopped us on the road, some 20 kilometres from the border, and invited us for a coffee inside their building material dealership/convenience store. Within seconds of finishing the small strong black java a bottle of samagon appears. Walnuts from a…