« She too will be able to cycle to Rwanda? », asked the skeptical Ugandan border official to Pierre as if they were two adults discussing a six-year old child. “I’m just a girl in the world”, Gwen Stefani would say, and lately I am also just a mzungu from Wazunguland, kept…

Getting off our bicycles and out of our stinky sandals at Borana Lodge was a bit like dying and going to heaven. The plush room, feather pillows and spa-size bathroom, along with daily gourmet meals and wine made for a change of gear and a surreal holiday. For a couple…

Our guidebook of Kenya considered the road south from Lodwar towards Kitale “diabolical”, an hardly recognizable stretch of pavement laid in the 1980s and abandoned thereafter. After ten kilometres, when Pierre had what felt like a millionth flat tire, and a white truck approached our location on a parallel sandy…

I am not going to lie, we were suffering from Ethiopia-fatigue when we left the Forty Springs Hotel‘s shady garden in Arba Minch. With our eyes on the prize, Kenya, we pressed on towards one of Ethiopia’s most distinctive region: the hot and dry Lower Omo Valley and its many…