“No, no, no! Look at us! We are from many tribes but we are ALL Tanzanians, united!”, he cried out. The owner of the bar in Dareda where we had stopped at to rest, drink and filter enough water to continue cycling through the afternoon had asked if we wanted…

The nomadic peoples living between the northernmost point of Europe and Africa’s southern extremity are the focus of this ongoing bicycle journey. After the Batwa pygmies of East Africa, our sight was now on Tanzania’s pastoralists, the Maasai and Barbaig, as well as the Hadzabe, one of Africa’s last hunter-gatherers…

Of course our 90-day East Africa visas were about to expire and we had not entered Rwanda yet, the third of three countries (Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda) included in the immigration safe-conduct. We thought for a minute about riding our bicycles from Uganda to Tanzania, skipping Rwanda altogether. Our minds thought…

“Do not ride bicycles in the Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP)! Please, take a taxi”, she implored. “Once, I saw a lion, he jumped on a cyclist and argh!”, she added for dramatic effect. Agnes had rented us a spotless and spartan room for 15,000 shillings in her small guesthouse…