Highs and lows in the Ethiopian highlands! (Mekele, Ethiopia – KM 14,125)

Transparency has become more important to me over time. My point of view is that if people were more open about their struggles we would realise that none of us have it all figured out, that we are just humans with our doubts and fears. So, I will say that after we arrived in Gondar and checked-in our room at Lodge Fasil I had a bit of a meltdown. In the lush greenery of the hills, with cows, goats, sheep and donkeys grazing in every field why were grown men begging for a banana? Why were children asking us for money or clothing then throwing rocks at us? Was it because of all the NGOs roaming the roads in fancy Land Cruiser? They had been spoiled by other tourists? Bob Geldof and his Live Aid? Maybe I was not strong enough for Ethiopia after all. I had cycled in some forty countries but, maybe, I was in over my head here. How was I going to survive?

The cultural shock from sedated fasting Sudan to overcrowded Ethiopia was real, but it slowly subsided. When we set out again on the road towards Debark, Shire, Aksum and Mekele, on the northern edge of the country I was serene again, not fighting the new reality and ready for a bumpy ride. When the tough gets going, it is necessary to manage it one kilometre at a time—sometimes one pedal stroke at a time—and we were ready to do that. There were more tears to come, tears of rage, tears of sadness, but also tears of joy from being in such a jaw-on-the-ground beautiful place. Welcome to the seesaw that travelling by bike in Ethiopia is!

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The cool climate in Gondar, at 2,300 metres of altitude, is invigorating and conducing to long walks on the old capital’s cobblestone streets. Afternoon macchiatos and people-watching on a sidewalk patio become the norm. Gondar, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

KM 14000b

In 1636, king Fasiladas (reigned 1632-67) made Gondar his capital. The arts and crafts flourished, impressive churches and castles were built. The Gondar kingdom disintegrated by 1784 but the Royal Enclosure and its castles and palaces stand tall, evidence of an era of immense wealth. Gondar, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Slowly climbing to above 3,000 metres on the plateau from Gondar to the Simien Mountains. The new highland reality is green with afternoon showers, and farmers plowing and planting the ground. Gondar, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Most shepherds we meet on the road are under 10 years old! Kids as little as 4 years old manage goats, sheep and cows on their own! Ethiopia has one of the fastest growing populations in the world—with a fertility rate of 5.39 per woman—and half of its 95 million inhabitants are under 18. This work force is by the road, unsupervised, sticks, whips and rocks in hand. If we are heading downhill the encounters are quick but on the uphills it often turns into a slow speed chase to the sound of “money!” and “pen!”. Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Arriving in the 3,000m high village in a downpour and after dark we headed to the deserted—we are totally off-season—Befiker Kossoye Ecology Lodge in hope of finding a safe campsite. Price for a soaked square of grass between two dark buildings with no shelter and no electricity: US$40! We offered US$10—which was already ridiculous. The manager refused: “this is a lodge!”. We rode out of the property Petzl on, rain whipping our faces and set up the tent by a livestock fence. The next morning a crew of miniature shepherds in rubber shoes enjoy the distraction. Kossoye, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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US President Barack Obama on an official visit in Kenya and Ethiopia has declared that “Africa is on the move!”. The slogan resonates everyday we spend on the road with hundreds of pedestrians. Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Voting against trekking in the Simien Mountains National Park, home of Ethiopia’s highest summit (Ras Dajen, 4543m), Gelada monkeys, also known as bleeding-heart baboons, and Walia ibex, we continue north after Debark, lose the pavement and are about to plunge down the mountainous massif’s Northern Escarpment in a series of hair-raising switchbacks. Debark, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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In the many “countries” of Ethiopia the zone of the Northern Escarpment, and its old, eroded volcanic landscape. Brings Kauai and other Polynesian volcanic wrecks to mind. Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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1,800 metres lower we have broken two brake cables and have run out of spare. In Zelema, Pierre finds an overpriced replacement and shares his personal “bubble” with a few curious. Zelema, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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After 42 kilometres of gravel, pavement comes back. Chinese engineering firms have been at work for a few years in Ethiopia—and elsewhere on the continent—bringing smooth asphalt to main roads. Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Three broken brake cables in two days! Pierre is walking his heavy mount downhill for the longest 15 kilometres while armies of little shepherds have a field day! Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Looking for brake cables and tubes in Adi Arkay we checked-in at a cheap hotel, climb up on its roof, Dashen beer in hand, to watch the sunset and realize this is the view represented on our beer bottles! Ras Dajen (Ras Dashen) is hidden in the rainy season low clouds. People are welcoming, the beer is cold, and we start to feel like we will not only survive here but we will enjoy ourselves! Adi Arkay, Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Old volcanic chimneys have resisted to erosion, the pinnacles make a dramatic backdrop to our peanut butter and banana sandwich lunch break. Amhara Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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In Egypt and Sudan donkeys were working hard carrying goods, people and water but since we have entered Ethiopia donkeys are on holidays until the upcoming harvest season and are slaloming aimlessly on the road in front of our wheels. There seems to be so such downtime for Ethiopian women whom we see hauling jerrycans of water and loads of wood. Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Falling into the crack of the large Tekeze River flowing at 900 metres of altitude. In the last 3 villages we came across Eritrean refugees that have fled on foot along this river. One day we stopped for a coffee and grocery shopping in a strange village with a school and hospital on one side of the road and people dressed in European clothes, smoking—Ethiopians in general are not smokers—and holding white papers only to catch on that we were in a UNHCR refugee camp for Eritreans! Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Around 400 BC a civilization started to rise in Aksum. By the 1st century AD the kingdom of Aksum was known by Greek merchants as a powerful empire, one of the world’s greatest state. Over time obelisks (stelae) were sculpted from single pieces of granite to show the power of the royal families. Aksum is not only hosting these archaeological wonders. Ethiopian Christians believe that a small chapel located besides the church of St Mary of Zion houses the legendary Ark of the Covenant! Aksum, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

The rainy season coincides with the tunas one! For 20 birrs, the equivalent of 1 US dollar, we would get 20 to 60 tunas depending on proximity of the field of prickly pear cacti where they riped! Yummy and refreshing! Aksum, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

The rainy season coincides with the tunas one! For 20 birrs, the equivalent of 1 US dollar, we would get 20 to 60 tunas depending on proximity of the field of prickly pear cacti where they riped! Yummy and refreshing! Aksum, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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The dramatic mountains outside Adwa were witness to the 1896 battle between Emperor Menelik II’s army and invading Italian forces. One of the very few battles in Africa where a colonial power was defeated by a native force. Except for the short (1936-41) Italian occupation of Addis Abeba and few other garrison towns, Ethiopia stands out as the only African nation to successfully fight off colonisation. Adwa, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Fashion forward young men. Bizet, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Ping-pong and table-football are common pastimes. Bizet, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Climbing up to Alequa Pass, above 3,000 metres, the temperature fluctuates between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius and clouds engulf the summit’s curves. A team of road cyclists passes us—their support vehicle throwing 4 bananas at us in solidarity—which gives us hope of finding good tubes, and maybe a tire for Pierre, in Mekele, where the racers are based. There is a parcel containing new Michelin tires waiting for us in Addis but in the mean time we have to do with what is available here which is not much. Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Oh! Hyena roadkill! I did not know we were in hyena habitat! Alequa Pass, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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Africa is on the move! Saturday morning walk to the market to buy and sell animals, grains and vegetables or these clay/dung pots used to cook the national injera, a large semi-fermented pancake made of tef, the indigenous Ethiopian cereal, and eaten at every meal! Freweyni, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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The Orthodox religion—with a strong local flavour—dominates the highlands. Monasteries are found on steep pillars, table-top mountains and sculpted in rocky facades. Like walking through a lake, with cool spots, hot currents and areas where you feel someone has just pissed in the water, our ride in Tigray is an unpredictable mix of heaven and hell. For 40 kilometres after Adigrat children rush to the road in herds to applaud and encourage us and after…hell again! Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

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It is a lunchtime downpour as we sit and eat our injera and its spicy vegan topping—Ethiopian orthodox do not eat animal products on Wednesday and Friday, throughout Lent and prior to Christmas, and on a slew of other occasions. Wash your hands, eat, wash your hands and it is time to go. Being here during the rainy season means we have to find shelter for an hour or two everyday but there is the added bonus of lush surroundings in this otherwise drought-prone region. Wikro, Tigray Region, Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

 

Higher and Lower! (Lalibela, Ethiopia - KM 14,335)
Stairway to Ethiopia! (Gondar, Ethiopia - KM 13,515)

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