The Land of a thousand hills! (Kigali, Rwanda – KM18,635)

The Land of a thousand hills! (Kigali, Rwanda – KM18,635)

Of course our 90-day East Africa visas were about to expire and we had not entered Rwanda yet, the third of three countries (Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda) included in the immigration safe-conduct. We thought for a minute about riding our bicycles from Uganda to Tanzania, skipping Rwanda altogether. Our minds thoughtRead More »

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Of gorillas and men! (Kisoro, Uganda – KM 18,075)

Of gorillas and men! (Kisoro, Uganda – KM 18,075)

“Do not ride bicycles in the Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP)! Please, take a taxi”, she implored. “Once, I saw a lion, he jumped on a cyclist and argh!”, she added for dramatic effect. Agnes had rented us a spotless and spartan room for 15,000 shillings in her small guesthouseRead More »

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Go West! (Fort Portal, Uganda – KM 17,685)

Go West! (Fort Portal, Uganda – KM 17,685)

« She too will be able to cycle to Rwanda? », asked the skeptical Ugandan border official to Pierre as if they were two adults discussing a six-year old child. “I’m just a girl in the world”, Gwen Stefani would say, and lately I am also just a mzungu from Wazunguland, keptRead More »

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Equatorial meanderings! (Kisumu, Kenya – KM 17,055)

Equatorial meanderings! (Kisumu, Kenya – KM 17,055)

Getting off our bicycles and out of our stinky sandals at Borana Lodge was a bit like dying and going to heaven. The plush room, feather pillows and spa-size bathroom, along with daily gourmet meals and wine made for a change of gear and a surreal holiday. For a coupleRead More »